(reprinted from the Phoenix New Times, Sept. 20, 2001)

“Home of the Windy City Slider,” the Chicago Hamburger Company’s sign reads, and yes, the shop makes a mighty good burger. But it’s worth a trip all the way to Chi-town just for this company’s French fries. If you think fries are all the same, you’ve been sleepwalking through fast-food joints. Wake up and sample these spuds. Magnificent models of potato, these are piping hot, skinless, generously salted and crisp-edged. Like any proud potato, though, they’ve got to be eaten fresh from the kitchen — to transport the delicate sticks too far would be tater torture. A generous sackful sets you back a mere $1.29, and for just 50 cents more, you can gild the fries with cheese or chili. Save your two bits, though. Fries this good don’t even need ketchup.